Non-Yellowing Polyurethane
Non-Yellowing Polyurethane
Non-Yellowing Polyurethane
Non-Yellowing Polyurethane

Non-Yellowing Polyurethane

Regular price $ 50.00
Non-Yellowing Polyurethane is a water-based clear-coat carefully formulated to provide excellent adhesion, lasting clarity and exceptional durability.

 

Sheens: Flat, Satin & Gloss

  • Ideal for Interior and Exterior use
  • Mold and mildew resistant
  • VOC content: >150g/L
  • Water-based
  • Low odor and easy clean-up
  • Coverage: 400-500 sq/ft
  • Scratch Resistant
  • Self-Leveling

 

PREPERATION

PRODUCT PREP: Stir product thoroughly to ensure that any settled particles mix through the coating. DO NOT SHAKE. You may want to filter the coating before use. Use a paper cone filter or a “nylon” filter to strain. In most instances Polyurethane can be sprayed without the need to thin. If additives or thinners are used be sure to mix THOROUGHLY to ensure proper effect (enhanced leveling, flow-out, etc.).

FINISHING AREA AND ENVIRONMENT: It is important to provide a clean, ventilated environment with a stable temperature in which to apply this finish. Polyurethane is self-leveling and dries rapidly. A hard cure and high-clarity will occur best at around 70° F with gentle airflow, temperatures of between 65° F and 75° F are recommended. This increases the speed of surface evaporation, minimizing or eliminating grain raising. Extremes should be avoided. Using below 60° F or above 80°F can affect the performance of the finished coat. Polyurethane will continue to cure after it is dry to the touch. Constant temperature during the drying and curing process is ideal. DO NOT store below 60º F. Avoid freezing.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE COATED OR STEARATED SANDPAPER, STEEL WOOL, TACK CLOTHES OR ANY MATERIAL THAT CAN LEAVE RESIDUE as this can cause improper surface bonding. This is often evident if the coating suddenly separates into a series of small clear crater-like circles known as “fish eye”. Lack of adhesion can also occur if oils, silicones, debris, etc. are left on the surface prior to being coated. Use an approved surface conditioner if necessary to ensure a properly cleaned surface prior to application..

WOOD PREP: Careful sanding and preparation will help ensure a quality finish. Recommended grit varies but generally finer grades of sandpaper will help keep wood grain tight and minimize or eliminate grain raising. In addition, spraying on cold wood may cause the coating to perform erratically. Be sure that the wood and the coating to be applied are at a stable temperature.

USE OVER OTHER FINISHES: Polyurethane can be applied over oil-based stains, oil-based paints, water-based finishes, lacquers, urethanes, shellacs, varnishes etc. Newly applied oil-based stains and solvent finishes must be thoroughly dry and solvents completely evaporated for proper bonding and adhesion.. Premature application will result in bubbling, foaming, and non-adhesion.

 

APPLICATION

GENERAL: Gently stir with a clean stir stick and be careful not to aerate. DO NOT SHAKE prior to use as this produces air bubbles in the applied clear coat. Rather, stir the product.

COVERAGE: 400-500 sq ft per gallon

BRUSH OR ROLLER We recommend avoiding foam as it often introduces air bubbles into the finish. Use very light pressure to apply a thin coat. Allow to dry.

SPRAYING: A HVLP spray gun is recommended with a 1mm needle. Each coat should be applied as thin as possible in order to reduce sags, runs and drips. Allow each coat of Polyurethane to dry at least 2 hours before applying the next coat or 24 hours if sanding between coats. See Sanding & Polishing below for more information.

The last 2-3 coats should be applied WITHOUT scuff sanding between coats to ensure a smooth, clear surface. Number of coats varies by desired final appearance. A minimum of 4 and a maximum of 12 coats is recommended.

 

SANDING & POLISHING

Allow 24-hours after application per coat to cure before sanding.

LEVEL SANDING: To achieve a mirror-like, high gloss shine, it is best to wet sand. Use P-grade, waterproof, silicon carbide sandpaper wrapped around a waterproof, rubber sanding block. Fill a clean 1-quart container with distilled water and drop of liquid dish soap. Start wet sanding with P800 grit sandpaper. Wet sand in a small, manageable areas. Don’t try to wet sand the entire surface all at once. Wet sand very carefully near the edges to prevent sand through. Check your progress by drying off the area with a clean, lint-free cloth. The surface should begin to develop a matte sheen. If there are any shiny spots remaining, continue to wet sand until the surface is a uniform matte sheen before moving to the next area. Once the entire surface is a uniform matte sheen, clean the surface with a clean, damp cloth.

POLISH SANDING: After level sanding is complete, start polish sanding in small, manageable areas with P1000 grit sandpaper and fresh distilled water/liquid dish soap. Check your progress by drying off the area with a clean, lint-free cloth. The area wet sanded with P1000 should appear slightly more reflective than the areas that were level sanded with P800 grit when viewed at a low angle. Continue wet sanding with the P1000 grit until the sheen left by the P800 grit is replaced with a P1000 grit sheen. After wet sanding the entire surface with P1000 grit sandpaper, clean the surface with a clean, 7 damp cloth. Repeat polish sanding steps 1-3 with P1200 grit sandpaper. Repeat polish sanding steps 1-3 with P1500 grit sandpaper. Repeat polish sanding steps 1-3 with P2000 grit sandpaper.

BUFFING BY HAND: You can either buff entirely by hand or use an electric drill with foam polishing pads. Start with a high quality, silicon-free, rubbing compound and a clean buffing cloth/pad. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using the rubbing compound. Continue with a high quality, silicon-free, fine polishing compound and a clean buffing cloth/pad. Do not use the same cloth/pad used in the previous step. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using the polishing compound. Finish with a high quality, silicon-free, swirl remover and a clean buffing cloth/pad. Do not use the same cloth/pad used in the previous step. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using the swirl remover.

BUFFING MACHINE: (Recommended): fit buffing machine with a 12” diameter or larger buffing wheel. The ideal buffing speed of the machine should be 700 to 900 rpm. Three buffing compounds will be used, and each compound should have its own dedicated buffing wheel. Do not use the same wheel with all three compounds. Start with a coarse solid buffing compound and a firm cotton buffing wheel. Always take care not to linger in any one spot for too long and be especially careful along the edges of the surface in order to avoid burning the finish. After buffing with the coarse compound, let the surface cool for 30 minutes and clean off any residue with a clean, soft cloth. Continue buffing with a fine solid compound and another firm cotton buffing wheel. Take care not to linger in any one spot for too long and be especially careful along the edges of the surface in 8 order to avoid burning the finish. After buffing with the fine compound, let the surface cool for 30 minutes and clean off any residue. Finish buffing with a very fine solid compound and a soft flannel buffing wheel.. After buffing with the very fine compound, let the surface cool for 30 minutes and clean off any residue.

Flat: A faint amount sheen, providing a soft, velvety finish. Flat offers the durability of a polyurethane clearcoat while retaining the look of the underlying finish as much as possible. A great choice for protecting delicate special finishes.

Satin: A slight sheen, satin is versatile and can be used in a wide variety of applications. It’s great in higher traffic areas or for use on exterior mill and trim work or anywhere durability is a concern but without the flash of gloss.

Gloss: Not only elegant, but extremely durable and easy to clean. The glossier the sheens become, the more they reflect light to lend the color a luminance. High-Gloss is predominantly used for exterior trim, and doors, heavily used surfaces or decorative accents.


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